Fritter - A Pantry Blog


Photo by Aran Goyoaga

2015 was a big year for the Pantry.

It started out simple enough: just keep up. Then the space next door to us finally became available, and I could finally enact the plans I drew up two years ago, when it became apparent that we had outgrown our existing space. Building a second kitchen while keeping the Pantry running smoothly felt somehow harder than the first time around, when I was actually helping with the building (along with any friends I could talk into a “fun” construction day). I didn’t get my hands nearly as dirty this time around, mostly to stay out my contractor’s way, since we were on what is now widely accepted as an impossible schedule. But we finished. And it looks beautiful. And I’m so proud. And I’m so ready to leave Seattle for a nice long break.

Photo by Aran Goyoaga

I’m a firm believer in vacations, and I encourage all of the Pantry staff to take them. There’s no limit on paid vacation days, and as long as we have plenty of notice, and things feel equitable, I let everyone manage their own time. That, of course, doesn’t stop every single one of us from grinding ourselves into a fine paste, so that by December we all tend to run around looking a little wild-eyed and feral. So in the spirit of keeping our shit together, every year we close down before Christmas and reopen after the New Year begins. We mostly disperse to our respective families and friends, and the time away is relished by us all. This year John and I will be celebrating Christmas in Alabama, then saying hello to 2016 in the Dominican Republic with our friends Molly and Brandon, who own Delancey and Essex next door.

For me personally, this trip is so incredibly important. I don’t naturally slow down — if you’ve seen me at the Pantry, it’s pretty likely that I plowed right by you on the way to some project that had me completely engrossed. I prefer to have long to-do lists, and have a tendency to think five years ahead at all times. But for the ten or so days where one year ends and another begins, I find an ocean somewhere south of Seattle and I float in it. And reflect on everything that happened that year, and how to make the next one even better. Away from the hustle and bustle and endless lists, I get my best ideas for classes, dinners, and other community-minded projects. Brandon and I compare notes on running growing businesses while finding ways to compete with each other (over anything, really), while John and Molly roll their eyes at us from behind their pile of New Yorkers. It is the perfect vacation.

But before we all leave for our respective breaks, the Pantry throws one last big dinner. As I mentioned above, I pride myself on only hiring overachievers, and we like to go out with a bang. Every year we string cranberry garlands across the ceiling, sneak gifts into each other’s bulging stockings, and for a few nights, just really get into the holidays with our version of an Italian Seafood Feast. It was our first time seating 40 guests with our new kitchen, and while there was a bit of a learning curve (walking from one side of the kitchen to the other sure takes longer now that it’s twice as long!), we were beaming by the third and final night of the dinner.

Arancini with tuna and parsley-lemon pesto
Spicy chickpea fritters with cipollini in agrodolce
Caramelized broccolini with oil-cured olive aioli

Ricotta gnudi with anchovy-brown butter
Roasted winter squash, bread crumbs, and chiles

Grilled prawns with caramelized clementines
Fregola, fennel, and saffron

Wilted chicories with pine nuts, pickled currants
Shaved bottarga, and lemon

Cinnamon-roasted pear with espresso butterscotch
Whipped mascarpone and almond

Photo by Aran Goyoaga

It’s been several months since I wrote about dessert, so it seemed about time. And after eating these roasted pears multiple days in a row, I can say with confidence that I would very much like to eat them again. They’re great for entertaining, as you make all of the components in advance, and then simply warm up the pears and sauce before serving. I like my desserts a little wild-looking (and as I mentioned above, it’s December, so it matches the state of myself and my staff), so I prefer to serve this one in parts, and then let the guests have the pleasure of drizzling sauce across their plates and dolloping mascarpone onto their pears. I’m proud to share that after five course of fairly rich food, there were multiple reports of guests lifting up the family-style platters to scrape every last bit of sauce into their mouths. Now that’s my kind of dinner.

Photo by Aran Goyoaga

Cinnamon-Roasted Pears with Espresso Butterscotch and Mascarpone

8 servings
  • Roasted Pears:
  • 1 lemon
  • 6-8 firm ripe bosc pears, depending on size
  • 1 ounce unsalted butter
  • 6 tablespoons sugar
  • 6 tablespoons honey
  • 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 1 cup water
  • Espresso Butterscotch Sauce:
  • 4 ounces unsalted butter
  • 14 1/2 ounces brown sugar
  • 1 1/2 cups heavy cream
  • 1/2 vanilla bean
  • 2 teaspoons kosher salt
  • 1/4 cup espresso
  • 1 tablespoon lemon juice
  • Whipped Mascarpone:
  • 8 ounces mascarpone
  • 1 cup heavy cream, cold
  • 1/4 cup sugar
  • Garnish:
  • Toasted sliced almonds
  • Flakey sea salt

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